It has been a patriotic few days here in Argentina, with the bicentenary celebrations culminating yesterday, 25 May. This is the date of the May Revolution, which was actually a week of events climaxing on 25 May 1810, when the people of Buenos Aires rejected rule by the Spanish viceroy and set up their own government, paving the way to Argentina’s official independence six years later. At least, that’s how I understand it.
History was never my strong point. I don’t have one of those brains that soaks up significant dates and names for future recall. But the bicentenary extravaganza has inspired me to gen up on Argentinian history. My passion for Recoleta Cemetery has stirred my curiosity, too. Who were the people who are buried there?
Take this pantheon of the Paraguayan warriors. I’d not paid much attention to it until one morning last week, when the sunlight beckoned me. I was moved by the young face of this bronze marine guarding the entrance. Spirited inside by a reflection in the glass door pane, he stands solemnly between his country’s furled flag and an array of plaques honouring the dead. Men like him lost their lives in a war I’d not even heard of.
The Paraguayan War lasted from 1864 to 1870. Paraguay fought against the allied countries of Uruguay, Argentina and Brazil (you can see the three flags represented side by side in the stained glass window here) – ultimately losing the war and more than half its population.
The word ‘PAX’ (peace) has reflected its way uncannily into the photo, eliciting the title War & peace. I find that having something visual helps me to connect with history. I will remember these warriors now.
I was born in Montreal in 1967, grew up in England and live between London and Buenos Aires. Like many, I came to Buenos Aires to dance tango and fell under the spell of this city where strangers talk to you, tango music seeps on to the streets and the ornate crumbling buildings speak of grander times. I love writing and crafting words – I've worked as a sub-editor for more than 20 years – and taking photographs.
Beautifully executed shot, Julie-Anne! Write-up is interesting. I was not aware of the Paraguayan War either. Xap/pax was a little obscure at first.
Hello Bob, I thought this was a good one, but now I know it must be! Quite amazing that it’s a forgotten war, considering I read in several places that it was the bloodiest conflict in Latin American history. Aah, so my title was a bit obscure… Trouble was (and I’m sure you understand this), this was the best shot of the warrior’s face, but the one in which the ‘P’ of the ‘PAX’ was obscured. I guess I’m used to seeing the word on many of the tombs, so I’m tuned in to it. My initial idea for the title was Spirit of war. What do you think?
Hi Julie-Anne, this is one of my favourites so far. The soldier’s expression is so life like. Looking at your photos is always a real joy – and imagining you hanging off railings and door handles to get them always brings a smile to my face. Love your words, too. Keep it up, lots of love x
Oh, thank you, Petra. Yes, he does look incredibly lifelike, doesn’t he? There are some amazing sculptures in the cemetery – it really is an outdoor museum. You’ve definitely got the picture with me hanging on to door handles and the like to capture the photos!